Roast chicken


Serves 4

1 21/2 - 3 pound chicken

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 clove garlic

6 fresh sage leaves

Olive oil

Bunches of other herbs — such as rosemary, parsley, thyme and sorrel — leaves, stems and all. This is the perfect time to clear any sad-looking herbs from the crisper drawer or trim the straggly herb garden.

1. Clean: Pull the chicken out of its packaging and the innards out of the chicken. Save or toss innards. Plunge the chicken into a big pot of cold salted water. Let soak, a few seconds. Drain water and repeat until water is clear and chicken is clean. Pat dry with paper towels.

2. Rub: Tuck wings behind back. Sprinkle chicken, inside and out, with 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper; rub lightly into skin. Cover loosely with plastic wrap or wax paper. Set on a plate. Return chicken to the bottom shelf of the fridge. Let rest, 2 to 24 hours.

3. Season: Pull chicken out of fridge and let come to room temperature, up to 1 hour. Chop together sage, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper. Slide a finger between skin and breast, opening a pocket of space. Rub in some of the sage mix. Repeat, seasoning between the skin and meat on both sides of the breast and over the legs. Stuff herb bunches inside the chicken, filling (though not tightly packing) the cavity.

4. Roast: Meanwhile, drizzle about 1 tablespoon oil into a cast-iron pan that will later offer your chicken a snug fit. My go-to chicken pan is 10 1/2 inches across the top and 3 inches deep. Slide pan into a cold oven; heat to 425 degrees. Pan and oven will heat up together. When hot, carefully lower in chicken, breast side up. All that sizzle will ensure crisp skin. Roast 20 minutes. Turn breast down; roast 20 minutes. Flip breast up; roast 20 minutes. Chicken is done when skin is golden and blistered, its juices run clear when inner thigh is poked, and it smells delightful, about 1 hour total.

5. Rest: Lift chicken out of pan and set on a platter. Cover loosely with foil. Tip the platter so the chicken is tipped toward the breast.

6. Deglaze: Set the roasting pan on the stovetop. Add 2 tablespoons unsalted butter and 1/2 cup water or chicken broth. Set over medium-high heat. Stir with a wooden spoon, scraping up any stuck bits. Let boil and thicken, about 3 minutes. Strain into a gravy boat.

7. Serve: Carve the chicken. I usually divide into 2 wings, 2 drumsticks, 2 thighs and 2 breasts, each cut crosswise into 3 chunks. Set roasted chicken chunks on a bed of spicy greens, such as arugula or watercress. Serve with gravy. What could be better?

 

Asparagus rolls

1 pound mid-sized asparagus

1 teaspoon olive oil

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon mustard seed

3 tablespoons freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/4 pound prosciutto, very thinly sliced

1/2 pound filo dough, defrosted

4 tablespoons butter, melted

 

1. Roast: Peel asparagus. Snap off the tough root ends and discard. Settle asparagus on a rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with oil, sprinkle with salt and mustard seed. Slide into a 425-degree oven and roast bright green (but not thoroughly cooked), 10 minutes. Let cool.

2. Wrap: Toss together cheese and zest. Sprinkle over asparagus. Shred proscuitto into long strips. Wrap one strip around each asparagus spear. No need for full coverage— aim for the demented candy-cane look.

3. Cut: Unroll filo dough. Cut a stack of 6 x 6-inch squares. Cover with a clean kitchen towel. Save any remaining filo for another project.

4. Fill: Brush one filo square with butter. Settle on 1 wrapped asparagus spear, running diagonally from corner to corner. Fold over filo, forming a triangle. Brush triangle with butter and roll up tightly. Brush again. Repeat with remaining spears.

5. Bake: Set finished spears on a rimmed baking sheet (feel free to reuse the asparagus sheet, no need to wash), no touching. Slide into a 425-degree oven and bake crispy, about 10 minutes. Arrange like sharpened pencils in a tall jar. Crunch.

Pot roast

Pot Roast

Prep: 30 minutes

Cook: About 2 ½ hours

Serves: 6

 

Beef chuck roast, about 2 1/2 pounds

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1/2 ounce dried porcini mushrooms

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 carrot, chopped

1 onion, chopped

1 stalk celery, chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

2 cups beef broth

1 cup red wine

6 ounces tomato paste

2 bay leaves

1 sprig fresh thyme

8 ounces pappardelle egg noodles

 

1. Season: Sprinkle meat with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper per pound (so a 2-pound roast, for example, would require 1 teaspoon salt and 1/2 teaspoon pepper). Best to do this in advance — even a day or two in advance — and keep covered in the fridge. But if you don’t have time, don’t fret.

2. Soak: Settle mushrooms in a small bowl. Cover with warm water. Soak soft, about 15 minutes. Pour liquid through a coffee filter; set aside. Rinse and chop the rehydrated mushrooms. 

3.  Brown: Heat olive oil in a dutch oven over medium-high heat. Brown meat, about 2 minutes per side. Lift out meat and set aside.

4.  Soften: Reduce heat under pot to medium. Scrape in carrot, onion, celery and garlic. Cook, stirring, until softened, about 10 minutes. Pour in broth, wine, tomato paste, and reserved mushroom liquid. Toss in chopped mushrooms, bay leaves and thyme. Bring to a boil. Return meat to the pot. Liquid should come about 2/3 the way up the sides of the roast. Cover.

5.  Braise: Slide covered Dutch oven into a 325-degree oven and let cook, turning roast once, until very tender when prodded with a fork, about 2 – 2 ½ hours. Set pot on stovetop.

6.  Shred: Remove roast from pot. Shred the meat, discarding any fat. Discard bay leaves and thyme sprig. Return shredded meat to pot and keep warm over low heat.

7.  Boil: Heat a large pot of salted water. Cook noodles until tender but firm. Drain. Add noodles to sauce. Toss gently. Enjoy. 

Provenance: Adapted from Mom’s beef with fat noodles, which she adapted from The New York Times Cookbook by Craig Claiborne(1961 edition).

Pasta without fear

Homemade pasta

Don't be intimidated by homemade pasta: Buzz together 1 cup all-purpose flour*, 1 whole egg, 2 egg yolks and 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt until dough clumps. Press into a square, about ½ inch thick, wrap in plastic (or one of those cute silicone bags) and let rest at room temperature, 1 hour. Roll out, using a hand-cranked pasta machine: pass once through each setting, from widest to next-to-thinnest. (Alternatively, use a rolling pin on a lightly floured surface.) Roll up the long ribbon of pasta and slice into 1-inch wide noodles. That’s it!

*Also good when made with emmer (older cousin to wheat, much like whole wheat).

Tumbled corn salad

10 ears corn, husked

1 cup sugar snap peas

2 cups grape tomatoes, halved on the diagonal

1⁄4 cup olive oil

1⁄4 cup rice vinegar

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

12 fresh basil leaves, snipped

1. Boil: Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Drop in corn and cook until shocking yellow, about 7 min- utes. Drain.

2. Blanch: Bring a small pot of water to a boil, add peas, and cook until bright green, about 1 minute.

3. Toss: Cut the corn kernels from the cob and tum- ble into a large bowl. Cut the sugar snap peas in half (on the diagonal is nice) and add to the corn. Add the tomatoes, olive oil, and vinegar. Toss gently. Sea- son with salt, pepper, and basil.

Provenance: Adapted from the now defunct Trotter’s To Go, Chicago.

Picnic Chicken

2 cups whole, cultured buttermilk

3 tablespoons kosher salt

4 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken breasts, cut in quarters

2 pounds skin-on, bone-in chicken legs, cut into drumsticks and thighs

2 cups flour

2 teaspoons ground cayenne pepper

1 quart vegetable oil

 

1. Marinate: Pour 1 cup buttermilk and 1 1⁄2 teaspoons salt into each of two 1-gallon zip-top bags. Add half the chicken pieces to each, seal, and shake to coat. Refrigerate 2 hours to 2 days.

2. Dredge: Whisk flour with remaining 2 tablespoons salt and the cayenne in a pie plate. Dredge chicken.

3. Fry: Heat oil to 350 degrees in a cast-iron skillet. Add half the chicken, avoiding spatter, and fry until golden on one side, 10 minutes. Turn and fry until golden, juices run clear, and chicken reaches 165 degrees inside, about 10 mintues more. Drain on a rack. Return oil to 350 degrees. Repeat with remaining chicken.

Onion tart

2 tablespoons olive oil

4 medium onions, chopped

1⁄4 cup sherry

3 egg yolks

1⁄2 cup heavy cream

3 ounces blue cheese, crumbled

2 tablespoons fresh thyme, finely chopped

1⁄2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 package (about 1 pound) all-butter puff pastry, defrosted

1. Caramelize: Heat oil in a large heavy skillet over low heat. Add onions and cook slowly, stirring occasionally, until deep brown and sticky sweet, about 1 hour. Turn up the heat, add sherry, and deglaze the pan, scraping any browned bits off the bottom. Cool.

2. Mix: Beat 2 of the yolks briefly in a small bowl, then stir in cream, cheese, thyme, and pepper. Stir in onions. (If you’re working ahead, transfer to an air-tight container and refrigerate until you’re ready to bake the tart.)

3. Bake: Unfold the puff pastry onto a baking sheet. Score with a pastry wheel into 3-inch squares. Separate slightly. Paint the pastry with the remaining egg yolk, lightly beaten. Slide into a 375-degree oven for 10 minutes until pastry begins to puff. Remove from oven. Spoon the onion lling onto each square, leav- ing a 1⁄2-inch bare border. Return to oven and bake until fully puffed, about 30 minutes. Serve warm.

Coffeehouse Scones

1 ounce milk chocolate

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 3⁄4 cups flour

2 1⁄4 teaspoons baking powder

1⁄4 cup sugar, plus a little

1⁄4 teaspoon salt

1 1⁄4 cups heavy cream

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

1. Pipe: Zap chocolate just to melt, about 1 minute. Stir in cinnamon. Scrape into a zip-top bag. Snip off one corner and pipe mini cinnamon chips onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Let set, 10 minutes (or slide into the freezer for 5 minutes).

2. Mix: Whisk together flour, baking power, 1⁄4 cup sugar, and salt. Pour in cream, stirring with a fork, once or twice. Slide in cinnamon chips. Mix a few more turns of the fork, just until dough comes together. Turn out onto a parchment-lined baking sheet. Pat into a disk, about 8 inches in diameter and 3⁄4-inch high.

3. Brush: Use a long, heavy knife dipped in flour to slice disk into 12 wedges. Separate wedges about 1⁄2 inch from each other. Brush tops with melted butter. Sprinkle with a little sugar.

4. Bake: Slide into a 400-degree oven and bake until tops turn golden and scones are set, about 16 minutes. Good warm or cooled.

Apple Tart

5 tablespoons unsalted butter

1⁄2 cup sugar
3⁄4 cup ground almonds (aka almond meal or almond our)

1 egg

1⁄8 teaspoon almond extract

1 package (about 1 pound) all-butter puff pastry, defrosted

2 apples, peeled, cored, and thinly sliced

3 tablespoons honey

1. Fluff: Beat 4 tablespoons butter and the sugar until light and uffy. Beat in, in order: almonds, egg, and almond extract.

2. Cut: Unfold puff pastry onto a lightly floured surface. Cut into 8 sections (squares are efficient, but circles suggest apple). Set pastry on a parchment-lined baking sheet.

3. Fill: Spread a generous spoonful of almond cream onto each tart, leaving a 1⁄2-inch border bare. Arrange apples over the cream in a pleasing pattern. Melt together the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter and the honey; drizzle over apples.

4. Bake: Slide into a 400-degree oven and bake until golden and thoroughly puffed, about 20 minutes. Serve warm.

Almond tea cake

1⁄3 cup ground almonds (aka almond meal or flour)

1 2/3 cups our

2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon ne salt

1 cup sour cream

1⁄2 teaspoon almond extract

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

1 cup sugar

2 eggs

1. Mix: Whisk together almonds, our, baking powder, and salt. In another bowl, stir together sour cream and almond extract.

2. Fluff: Using a stand mixer tted with the paddle attachment, set on medium-high, cream butter and sugar light and uffy. Beat in eggs, one at a time. Scoop in one-third of the our; mix on low just until incorporated. Pour in half the sour cream; mix just until incorporated. Work in remaining doses of our, sour cream, our.

3. Bake: Scrape the batter into a buttered and oured loaf pan (9 x 5 x 3) and slide into a 350-degree oven until a toothpick poked in the center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool 10 minutes. Gently turn out onto a rack. Cool completely. Nice with blueberry preserves.

Sly oatmeal bars

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

3⁄4 cup sugar

2 eggs

6 tablespoons molasses

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 1⁄2 cups all-purpose flour

1⁄4 cup whole-wheat flour

1 teaspoon baking soda

3⁄4 teaspoon fine salt

1 1⁄2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 cups rolled oats

1 cup raisins

1⁄2 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

 

1. Fluff: Using a stand mixer tted with the paddle attachment, cream butter and sugar until light and uffy, about 3 minutes. Add eggs, molasses, and vanilla and beat until the batter looks uffy again.

2. Mix: In a separate bowl whisk together both types of our, baking soda, salt, and cinnamon. Add our mixture to butter mixture and blend. Stir in oats, raisins, and walnuts by hand.

3. Bake: Heap batter into a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan (you know, the lasagna pan) lined with parch- ment paper. Pat down with a damp hand. Slide into a 350-degree oven and bake until rich brown and slightly puffed, about 25 minutes. Cool completely, cut, and serve. Or store in the freezer for those mornings when breakfast prep seems daunting.

 

Provenance: Inspired by Ina Pinkey. 

Tortilla Espanola

2 pounds waxy potatoes (such as Yukon Gold), peeled

2 1⁄4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 1⁄2 cups olive oil
2 onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, chopped 6 eggs

1⁄8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Slice: Using a mandoline or a sharp knife and patience, slice the potatoes into 1⁄8-inch disks. Toss with 2 teaspoons salt.

2. Soften: Heat half the oil in a well-seasoned (or nonstick) 8-inch skillet. Add the onions and garlic. Cook until soft, but not browned, about 8 minutes.

3. Sizzle: At the same time, heat half the oil in another medium skillet. Slide in potatoes. Sizzle over medium heat until tender, about 10 minutes.

4. Drain: Set a sieve over a bowl. Drain onions and potatoes. (Later you can strain and save the delicious oil for other projects.)

5. Rest: In a large bowl, beat eggs, remaining 1⁄4 teaspoon salt, and pepper. Add drained potatoes, onion, and garlic and mix gently. Let rest 10 minutes.

6. Set: Heat 1 tablespoon reserved oil in the 8-inch skillet over medium heat. Pour in the potato-and- egg mixture. Cook, shaking now and then, until the eggs are set at the edges and the tortilla easily slips around in the pan, about 8 minutes.

7. Flip: Set a wide, at plate upside down over the pan. Holding pan and plate securely together, ip tortilla onto plate. Set the pan back on the heat. Add 1 tablespoon reserved oil. Slide the tortilla back into pan (uncooked side down). Tuck the edges under to achieve the Frisbee look.

8. Test: Cook until a toothpick stabbed in the center comes out clean, about 5 minutes. Slide onto a plat- ter and cool at least 10 minutes. Serve warm or room temperature, cut into wedges.