Pink drink

Prep: 10 minutes
Cook: 10 minutes
Makes: 1 1/2 cups syrup, enough for 12 cocktails

Ingredients:
1 cup cranberries (fresh or frozen), plus 12
1 cup water
1 cup sugar
Zest of 1 orange
Triple sec (or sub fresh orange juice)
Champagne or sparkling wine (or sub ginger ale)

Pop:
In a saucepan, heat 1 cup cranberries, the water, sugar and zest to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until cranberries pop and syrup turns pink, about 10 minutes.

Chill:
Set a fine-mesh strainer over a wide glass measuring cup. Pour cranberry mixture through, pressing with a rubber spatula. Discard cooked cranberries and zest. Cool syrup. Pour into a 1-pint glass jar (isn't that pretty?), cover and chill.

Mix:
For each cocktail, pour 1 tablespoon triple sec into a Champagne flute. Add 2 tablespoons pink syrup. Fill with Champagne. Drop in 1 cranberry, for decorative effect. Enjoy.

Kickoff cocktail

Thanksgiving kickoff: Cold

Prep: 5 minutes

Freeze: 1 hour

Makes: 12 servings

6 cups fresh apple cider (best made with nonprocessed cider)

2 ¼ cups bourbon whiskey (I like the “wheated” sort, but suit yourself)

¼ cup orange liqueur

1 hefty sprig of thyme

Lemon wedges

Garnish: small sprigs of thyme, tiny apples, orange wedges, apple slices, cranberries, cinnamon sticks — get creative

1 Freeze: Pour 4 ½ cups cider, the bourbon and orange liqueur into a freezer zip-close bag. Toss in thyme sprig. Seal and stash in freezer for an hour or more.

2 Serve: Discard thyme sprig. Scrape slush into a dozen 10-ounce glasses. Squeeze a little lemon over each. If you like your drink less slushy (or less strong), splash with a little more cider. Garnish as you like. Let the festivities begin!

Thanksgiving kickoff: Hot

Prep: 10 minutes

Makes: 12 servings

6 cups fresh apple cider

2 ¼ cups bourbon whiskey

¼ cup orange liqueur

1 hefty sprig of thyme

Lemon wedges

Garnish: small sprigs of thyme, tiny apples, orange wedges, apple slices, cranberries, cinnamon sticks

1 Warm: In a large pot or tea kettle, heat cider and thyme. Remove thyme.

2 Dose: Drop 3 tablespoons bourbon, 1 teaspoon orange liqueur and a squeeze of lemon into each of 12 mugs. Top with 6 to 8 tablespoons hot cider. Garnish. Enjoy.

Oyster stew

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 10 minutes

Makes: About 4 cups, enough for 12 small servings

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup finely chopped onion

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1/4 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons flour

1 quart half-and-half

1/4 cup dry white wine, optional

1 pint shucked oysters with their liquor (juice)

2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest

1. Soften: In a heavy medium saucepan, melt butter over medium-low heat. Tumble in onion, celery, garlic, salt and cayenne; cook until very soft and golden brown, about 15 minutes.

2. Thicken: Sprinkle in flour; cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Slowly pour in half-and-half and wine. Cook over medium heat, 5 minutes. If working ahead: Cool, cover and chill until ready to serve.

3. Serve: Set a strainer over the pan and pour in oysters, letting liquor drop into the soup. Reheat soup until very hot. Slide in oysters; cook just until their edges curl, about 3 minutes. Ladle hot soup into small cups. Garnish with zest. Slurp.

Sweet potato bisque

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 45 minutes

Makes: 6 servings

3 cups sweet potato, peeled, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 cup leeks, white parts only, cut into ½-inch pieces

5 cups whole milk

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon curry powder, optional

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

6 to 8 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut up

1. Simmer: Load all ingredients except butter into a large saucepan. Simmer, stirring regularly to prevent scorching, until sweet potatoes turn tender, about 45 minutes. (If the soup looks curdled, don't worry; it will be silky smooth in the end.)

2. Blend: Pull out bay leaves. Pour soup into a blender (or work in batches). Blend completely smooth, adding butter one chunk at a time through the slot in the lid.

3. Serve: Scoop into small bowls and serve at once. Or chill and reheat over low heat, stirring often.

Provenance: Adapted from a recipe by Paul Fehribach, chef and co-owner of Big Jones restaurant in Chicago.

Cheese sticks

Makes about 60

2 cups grated sharp cheddar cheese

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 pound (or one package) frozen puff pastry, defrosted

1.  Toss: In a small bowl, toss together cheese, red pepper and cumin seeds. Set aside.

2.  Roll: On a lightly floured work surface, roll out puff pastry into a large rectangle. Position the rectangle vertically. Scatter the bottom two-thirds with half the cheese mixture. Cover with wax paper and press in cheese by rolling gently with rolling pin. Set aside wax paper.

3.  Fold: Fold the blank top third down and the embossed bottom third up, like a cheesy love letter.

4.  Repeat: Roll out into a big rectangle again. Scatter the remaining cheese across the bottom two-thirds. Press in cheese, as before. Fold, as before. Roll into a big rectangle again.

5.  Cut: Using a pizza cutter, cut the rectangle in half lengthwise. Set one half on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Turn it lengthwise. Starting at the bottom, cut the dough into 1/2-inch thick strips, stopping 1 inch short of the top edge. All the strips will remain attached to this top border, fringe style. Repeat with remaining dough.

6.  Twist: Grasp each strip at the free end and twist. Rest the handle of a wooden spoon on the finished free ends, to prevent untwisting.

7.  Freeze: Slide the pans of twisted cheese sticks into the freezer. Freeze at least 1 hour (or, later secured in a plastic container, up to 1 month).

8.  Bake: Snap the frozen cheese twists off the backbone. Separate slightly on the parchment-lined pans and bake at 375 degrees until just crisp, 14-15 minutes. Cool on a rack. These make wonderfully crunchy hors d’oeuvres and get along well with soup.

Cornbread

Makes: 2 8-inch pans, enough for stuffing for 12

Let’s make x2 Can make ahead and freeze

3  cups fine-grind cornmeal

1 cup flour

3 tablespoons sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

2 teaspoons kosher salt

A few grinds of pepper

2 ½ cups milk

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

2 eggs

2 2-teaspoon pats salted butter

1. Heat: Set 2 8-inch cast-iron skillets in a cold oven. Heat to 400 degrees.

2. Whisk: In a large bowl whisk together cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, salt and pepper.

3. Mix: In a large glass measuring cup whisk together milk, melted butter, and egg. Pour liquid over dry ingredients and stir with a fork. Don’t fret over lumps.

4. Bake: Pull on reliable oven mitts and pull hot pan out of oven. Drop in butter and swirl to coat bottom of pan. Scrape in batter and smooth. Return to oven and bake until a toothpick poked in the middle comes out clean, about 18 – 20 minutes.

5. Store: Invert onto a rack. Cool. If working ahead, wrap and freeze. Break up for stuffing.

Carrot puree

Serves 12

4 pounds sweet potatoes

2 pounds carrots

5 cups water

2 tablespoons sugar

1 stick unsalted butter

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup plain yogurt

1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

¼ teaspoon ground cayenne pepper

1. Bake: Scrub potatoes. Cut a slit in each. Set on the center rack of 375-degree oven. Bake until tender when squeezed, about 1 hour.

2. Boil: Peel and trim carrots. Cut into 1-inch lengths. Tumble into a big saucepan. Pour in water, sugar, 2 tablespoons butter, salt and pepper. Set over medium heat. Bring to a boil, cook uncovered until water has evaporated and carrots begin to sizzle in the butter, about 30 minutes.

3. Swirl: Scrape out flesh of sweet potatoes and combine with carrots in food processor. Add remaining butter, the crème fraiche, nutmeg and cayenne. Process very smooth.

Provenance: Adapted from The Silver Palate

Crisp Brussels sprouts

Serves 3

1 pound fresh Brussels sprouts

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 strips bacon, cut crosswise into thin strips

Vinaigrette, recipe follows

1. Slice: Trim root end of sprouts. Halve sprouts north to south. Heap sprouts onto a baking sheet. Drizzle with oil. Toss with salt. Scatter on bacon. Spread out sprouts, cut sides down.

2. Crisp: Roast at 450 degrees, tossing once or twice, until dark and crisp, about 20 minutes.

3. Serve: You can simply sprinkle with a bit of red wine vinegar. Better yet, toss with the sweet/sour vinaigrette. Scrape onto a serving platter. Enjoy.

Sweet/sour vinaigrette

Let 2 tablespoons chopped red onion mellow in 1 ½ tablespoons red wine vinegar. After 20 minutes, whisk with 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil, ¾ teaspoon sugar, ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes and a little garlic mashed with salt.

Mashed potatoes

Prep: 30 minutes

Cook: 15 minutes

Serves: 12

10 Russet potatoes, peeled and quartered

1 ½ cups whole milk

4 tablespoons butter, cut up

1 bulb garlic, optional

Kosher salt

1. Boil: Settle potatoes in a large pot. Fill with cold water to cover by 1 inch. Sprinkle in 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil, lower to simmer and cook until fork-tender, 15 minutes. Drain. Return potatoes to pot and pot to stove. Shake gently over medium heat until potatoes look dry, 1 minute.

2. Warm: Heat milk and butter until hot. (if you like, add a bulb of garlic, cut in half and let steep 15 minutes.) Strain into a big serving bowl.

3. Fluff: Set a potato ricer over the bowl. Run potatoes through ricer into bowl. Fluff with a fork. Immediately serve big scoops topped with butter.

Dressing

Serves 12  

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 ½ pounds mild Italian pork sausage (bulk or slipped out of casings)

2 ribs celery, finely chopped

1 onion, chopped

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 pound white button mushrooms, halved or quartered

3 cloves garlic, finely chopped

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme

2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh sage

2 teaspoons kosher salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup dry sherry

1 (8-inch) pan cornbread, broken up

1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

2 to 3 cups chicken broth

2 cups candied pecans

1. Brown: In a wide skillet set over medium-high heat, heat 1 tablespoon oil. Add sausage, and cook, breaking up meat with a wooden spoon, until browned and cooked through, about 7 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to scoop out sausage into a large bowl.

2. Soften: Reduce heat under skillet to medium. Melt in 1 tablespoon butter. Tumble in celery and onions and cook until soft, about 10 minutes. Scrape into bowl with mushrooms.

3. Brown: Heat 1 tablespoon butter and 1 tablespoon oil (use the same skillet or a separate one). Add mushrooms and cook, stirring occasionally, until mushrooms turn a lovely deep brown, about 12 minutes. Stir in garlic, thyme, sage, salt, and pepper; cook 30 seconds. Deglaze with sherry. Scrape into bowl.

4. Toss: Tumble cornbread into bowl. Toss well. Drizzle in broth, stopping when cornbread is moist, but not mushy.

5. Bake: Turn dressing into a buttered baking dish. Cover with foil. Slide into a 375-degree oven and bake until hot, 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake until a little crisp on top, about 10 minutes. Just before serving, stir in candied pecans.

Candied pecans

Candied Pecans

2 cups pecans halves

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

1. Toast: Spread pecans on a rimmed baking sheet. Slide into a 350-degree oven until nuts darken slightly and give off a toasty scent, 8 minutes. Cautiously taste one. It should be crisp (if not, return to oven 1 more minute). Tumble nuts into a bowl. Season with salt and red pepper. Line the baking sheet with parchment paper and keep it handy.

2. Caramelize: Stir sugar and water together in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil. Let bubble without stirring until syrup starts to starts to color, 3 minutes. Reduce heat to medium; stir to a light, even brown 1 minute.

3. Coat: Pour in seasoned nuts. Stir until completely coated with caramel, 1 minute. Scrape onto the parchment-lined baking sheet. Spread as best you can. Cool completely, 20 minutes

4. Crack: Break apart candied nuts. These are addictively good solo and even better folded into cornbread/sausage stuffing just before serving.

Parker House rolls

Prep: 1 hour, plus 3 hours rest

Bake: 35 minutes

Makes: 16 Parker House rolls

1 ½ tablespoons active dry east

1 teaspoon plus 1 /3 cup sugar

½ cup warm water

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 cup whole milk

2 egg yolks

4 - 4 1/4 cups bread flour

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, softened, for bowl

For top: 3 tablespoons melted butter and flakey salt

1. Proof: Drop yeast and 1 teaspoon sugar into the bowl of a stand mixer. Test water: a drop should feel neither hot nor cold on the wrist. Pour in water. Let stand until foamy.

2. Scald: Meanwhile, measure remaining 1/3 cup sugar, the cut-up butter and salt into a bowl or quart-sized measuring cup. Pour milk into a medium saucepan. Set over high heat and watch closely. In 2 – 3 minutes it will bubble, foam, and rise up dramatically. Immediately pull pan off heat and pour milk over butter, sugar and salt. Let stand until butter has melted and milk has cooled down. With a fork, mix in yolks, further cooling mixture. You’re after the same neither-hot-nor-cool spot.

3. Knead: Pour milk over yeast, then drop in 4 cups of flour. Mix with a fork until it’s rough going. Snap bowl onto mixer stand and, using the dough hook, knead a full 10 minutes. It will quickly form a soft dough that cleans the sides of the bowl and wraps around hook. (If the dough looks more like a swamp monster than a ball, sprinkle in the remaining flour, 1 tablespoon at a time.)

4. Rest: Rub a clean bowl with most of the softened butter. Stretch dough and tuck it underneath itself, shaping a ball. Rub with remaining softened butter. Settle dough into bowl. Cover bowl with plastic wrap, then a kitchen towel. Let rise until doubled, about 1 hour. Punch down, reshape and let double again, 1 hour. Punch down.

5. Shape: Divide dough into 15 portions. Stretch and tuck each into a ball. Brush a 13 x 9 x 2-inch baking pan with melted butter. Line up 3 rows of 5 dough balls. Brush with melted butter.

6. Bake: Bake at 350 degrees to an internal temp of 195 degrees, about 32 - 35 minutes. Bush rolls again with butter and sprinkle with flakey salt. Enjoy warm.

Pie pastry

Prep: 15 minutes

Makes: Pastry for one double-crust, 9-inch pie

8 ounces (about 1 3/4 cup) all-purpose flour such as Gold Medal, plus more for dusting

1 tablespoon sugar

1 1/2 teaspoons Crystal Diamond kosher salt (half as much if iodized)

2 sticks cold unsalted butter cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/2 cup cold water

1. Smash: Sift flour into a medium bowl. Whisk in sugar and salt. Toss butter cubes with flour. Roughly smash each cube flat — nothing more! Stir in water and knead briefly into a ball.

2. Fold: Transfer to a floured work surface, sprinkle with flour, and roll into a 10-by-15 inch sheet, positioned vertically. Fold top edge down and bottom edge up to meet in the center. Fold left edge to meet right, as though closing a book. Fold top to meet bottom, forming a thick block. Cut the block in half.

3. Roll: Dust with flour and roll one portion into a 13-inch round. Brush off excess flour, drape over a 9-inch pie plate. Trim to a 1 1/4 inch overhang; fold under to create a 3/4 inch border that rests on the rim of the plate. Wrap in plastic and chill 2 to 24 hours. Roll remaining dough into a 13-inch round, rest on a baking sheet, cover with plastic and chill 2 to 24 hours.

4. Plot: Pastry is ready to be filled and baked, or it can be frozen for up to 3 months and thawed in a refrigerator.

Provenance: Adapted from “BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts” by Stella Parks.

Apple pie

Prep: 1 hour, 15 minutes, plus time to cool

Bake: 1 hour

Makes: One 9-inch pie (serves 8), plus 3 cups roasted sugar

Crust:

1 recipe no-stress all-butter pastry, half fit into a 9-inch pie plate the other half rolled into a 13-inch round, both chilled (see note)

About 3 cups granulated sugar, optional

Filling:

3 pounds (about 6 large) tart apples such as Granny Smith, Albemarle Pippin or Gold Rush

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2/3 cup (packed) light brown sugar

3 tablespoons tapioca flour (aka starch)

1 1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 pinch kosher salt

Egg wash:

1 egg

1 tablespoon heavy cream

1 pinch kosher salt

1. Parbake: Adjust oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat to 350 degrees. Line the chilled pastry with foil, draping it loosely over edges. Fill with granulated sugar (alternatively, use baking beans). Set on a baking sheet. Bake until pastry is set and golden, about 1 hour. Lift out the foil. If pale, continue baking until lightly colored, 5-10 minutes. Let cool. Roasted sugar can replace granulated sugar in other recipes; it offers a hint of caramel flavor. Cool, seal and store.

2. Wilt: Peel, core, halve and slice apples crosswise into ¼-inch thick half-circles. (An apple peeler contraption makes quick work of the job.) In a wide skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Slide in apples and toss to coat. Cover and cook, stirring regularly, until apples lose their snap, about 7 minutes. Uncover and stir in brown sugar, tapioca, cinnamon and salt. Cook until syrup begins to thicken, 1 minute. Let cool.

3. Fill: Scrape cooled apples into cooled pie shell. Drape the top pastry over apples, trim edge to ¾-inch overhang. Fold the overhang under itself, covering the parbaked edges (no need to unite baked and unbaked pastry, they will join forces in the oven). Chill firm, 30 minutes

4. Bake: With rack still in lower-middle position, heat oven to 400 degrees. Whisk together egg wash, and brush over chilled pie. Cut in a starburst of vent slits. Set pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until top is golden brown, center is bubbly and 195 degrees, about 1 hour. If top is browning too quickly, cover loosely with foil. Cool at least 1 hour before serving. To restore crisp crust later, reheat at 350 for 10 minutes.

Provenance: Inspired by (but not faithful to) “BraveTart: Iconic American Desserts” by Stella Parks.

Here’s another version:

 Apple pie

For crust:

1 recipe pastry, half fit into a 9-inch pie plate the other half woven into a lattice, both frozen

About 3 cups granulated sugar, optional

For filling:

3 pounds (about 8) Braeburn apples

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

½ cup sugar

2 tablespoons cornstarch 

½ teaspoon cinnamon

¼ teaspoon kosher salt

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

For top:

Milk, cream or egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon cream or water)

1 tablespoon sugar

1. Parbake: Adjust oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat to 350 degrees. Line frozen pastry with foil, draping it loosely over edges. Fill with granulated sugar (alternatively, use baking beans). Set on a baking sheet. Bake until set and golden, about 55 – 60  minutes. Lift out the foil. If pale, continue baking until lightly colored, about 3 - 5 minutes. Let cool. Roasted sugar can be used in place of granulated sugar in other recipes. It offers a hint of caramel flavor. Cool, seal and store.

2. Wilt: In a small bowl, stir together sugar, cornstarch, cinnamon, zest, and salt. Peel, core, and slice apples ¼ inch thick (the peeler contraption makes this chore a snap). In a wide skillet, melt butter over medium heat. Slide in apples and toss to coat. Cover and cook, stirring regularly, until apples have lost their snap, about 5 minutes. Uncover, stir in sugar mixture; cook until syrup thickens, 1 minute. Let cool.

3. Fill: Scrape apples into shell. Slide lattice into place. Trim. Brush top with milk or cream. Sprinkle with remaining 1 tablespoon sugar. (Or mix that tablespoon sugar with a shake of cinnamon before sprinkling.)

4. Bake: Adjust oven rack to the lower-middle position and heat to 400 degrees. Set pie on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake until top is golden brown, juices bubble thickly and the center registers 195 degrees, about 55 - 60 minutes. If top is browning too quickly, cover loosely with foil.

Pumpkin pie

1 (2- to 3-pound) green or red Kabocha squash*

1 cup (packed) light-brown sugar

1 ½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup heavy cream

1 cup milk

1 sprig fresh rosemary

2 eggs

3 egg yolks (save whites for meringue, if you like meringue on your pie)

Ginger crust (recipe follows)

Whipped cream (recipe follows) 

Meringue and whipped cream.

1. Roast: Slice squash in half. Use an ice-cream scoop to scrape out seeds and any stringy innards. Set squash cut-side-down on a parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet. Slide into a 400-degree oven and roast until tender (pierce with a fork, right through the skin), about 40 minutes.

2. Swirl: Scoop out orange flesh (discard skin) and drop it into the food processor. Swirl completely smooth. Measure 2 cups puree.

3. Simmer: In a  medium saucepan, heat cream, milk and rosemary to a simmer. Let simmer (infusing the cream mixture with rosemary flavor and slightly reducing it) about 20 minutes. Strain.

4. Toss: Use a fork to toss together sugar, cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg and salt.

5. Mix: Return the 2 cups squash to the food processor. Add cream (hot is fine), eggs, yolks, and sugar mix. Swirl smooth.

6. Bake: Pour squash mix onto baked ginger crust (still in its pan, still on a baking sheet). Slide into the center of a 400-degree oven and bake until pie is jiggly all the way across, about 45 minutes. Cool completely. Unsnap sides of pan, release pie. Slice and serve plain or with whipped cream, meringue … or both.

Ginger crust: Line a 9-inch springform pan (the sort used for cheesecake) with parchment paper. Stir together 1 1/4 cups gingersnap crumbs (use the sturdy kind, not the fancy kind), 4 tablespoons melted unsalted butter, and 3 tablespoons sugar. Press firmly across the bottom (not sides) of the prepared pan. Set pan on a rimmed baking sheet. Slide into the center of a 400-degree oven and bake until crust is fragrant and slightly darkened, about 12 minutes (don’t overbake!). Cool.

*Kabocha squash, also called Japanese pumpkin, has sweet, dense flesh that makes excellent pumpkin pie. I got mine at Whole Foods. Check the farmers’ market or pumpkin patch. If you can’t find one, substitute 1 (2- to 3-pound) pie pumpkin. Or open a can of prepared pumpkin puree (usually 15 ounces: close enough). Taste will not be as pronounced and texture will be softer, but it works fine.

Meringue: Slide 3 egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer. Whisk in 11 tablespoons sugar and 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar. Set over a pan of simmering water and whisk until 165 degrees hot. Snap into the mixer and, using the whisk attachment, whip to sturdy peaks. Whip in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. Pile onto pie or use a pastry bag fitted with a 1/2-inch star tip for a fancier effect. Brown with a torch.

Whipped cream: Whip 2 cups heavy cream, 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla extract to soft peaks.

Note: If you like both meringue and whipped cream on your pie, decorate with meringue first and brown with a torch. Then add whipped cream and chill the whole contraption.