Papa's Chicken Soup

Chicken soup is de rigeur at Passover. And with Passover looming, I called Papa. His chicken soup is a lot like my chicken soup, only better.

He was happy to spill. “It’s very simple,” he enthused. “It’s the Jewish way from Eastern Europe with all the vegetables. Should I tell you what kind of vegetables I use? Turnips.”

I listened and scribbled.

“Parsnip. Petrozilia. You could find it in the Korean grocery or Italian markets. It looks like a parsnip, but with green on it.”

Never heard of it.

“The other one is leek. Wash it out good. And also curly parsley. And carrots, of course. A couple cloves of garlic. Salt. And a lot of peppercorns.

“When you put in all the vegetables and the chicken and start boiling a lot of foam comes to the top. You clear all that foam off. Finally it’s clear that’s gonna be the soup.

“Listen, as you’re cooking, give me a call and we’ll talk. And if you’re going to make matzo balls, you buy the Stretiz matzo ball mix. You just follow exactly what’s written on the box. It comes out perfect. You can’t go wrong. And it’s delicious.”

And it was. But not as delicious as the original.

Papa’s Chicken soup

Prep: 45 minutes

Cook: 2 hours

Optional chilling time: overnight

Serves: At least 8

For soup:

One (3 1/2 – 4 pound) whole chicken

Kosher salt

4 large carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut into large chunks

3 stalks celery, trimmed and cut into large chunks

2 parsnips, peeled, trimmed and cut into large chunks

2 turnips, peeled, trimmed and cut into large chunks

1 petrozilia (parsley root), peeled, trimmed and cut into large chunks (optional)

2 whole cloves garlic

1 teaspoon whole peppercorns

1 leek, split and washed

½ bunch (about 2 cups) curly parsley (leaves and stems)

To finish:

3 carrots, cut into 2-inch long, ¼-inch thick sticks

Matzo ball mix, batter prepared as directed on the box

8 teaspoons snipped fresh dill

1. Rinse: Plunge the chicken into a big pot of cold salted water. Let soak, 10 seconds. Drain water and repeat until water is clear and chicken is clean.

2. Skim: Settle chicken in a large soup pot. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons salt. Pour in 5 quarts cold water. Water should cover chicken by about 2 inches (if it doesn’t, add more). Bring to a boil, lower to a simmer. Skim foam off the surface, several times. Continue simmering and skimming until foam has disappeared, about 15 minutes.

3. Simmer: Add carrots, celery, parsnips, turnips, petrozilia, garlic and peppercorns. Partially cover and simmer until chicken is cooked through, about 40 minutes. Use two forks to pull out breast meat; set aside. Add leek and parsley to the soup pot, cook another 30 minutes.

4. Strain: Strain soup into a clean pot. Discard meat and vegetables.  If you’re working ahead, let cool, cover and chill overnight. Before reheating, lift off any fat. If you’re on deadline, plunge ahead.

5. Finish: Half an hour before you’re ready to serve, get out a large pot. If you’ve got one with a basket insert, all the better. Scoop in 2 cups of the finished broth. Add 4 cups water and 1 tablespoon salt. Heat to a boil. With wet hands, roll about 24 matzo balls, each slightly smaller than a pingpong ball, and drop them in. Add carrot sticks. Cover, lower heat, and let simmer 25 minutes. Meanwhile, reheat broth.

6. Serve: Shred reserved chicken and divide into 8 soup bowls. Dust each portion with 1 teaspoon dill. Add 2 matzo balls and several carrot sticks to each bowl. Scoop about 1 cup hot broth into each bowl. Enjoy. Don’t worry, there’s enough for seconds.

Lemon mousse

Prep: 30 minutes plus time to cool

Cook: 5 minutes Makes: 8 servings

6 lemons (approximately)

3⁄4 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

4 eggs

1 stick (1⁄2 cup) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup heavy cream

1⁄2 teaspoon vanilla

Fresh berries

1 Squeeze: Zest 2 lemons into a large heavy saucepan. Squeeze all lemons and measure out 3/4 cup juice; pour into the pan. Whisk in 3/4 cup sugar, the eggs and butter.

2 Thicken: Set pan over medium heat and whisk until thick, 5-6 minutes. Press this tart lemon curd through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl.

3 Chill: Let cool. Cover and chill.

4 Whip: Use an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment (or a handheld whisk and

muscle) to whip cream, remaining 2 tablespoons sugar and the vanilla to sturdy peaks. Pour in chilled lemon curd and whip briefly to combine.

5 Serve: This pale yellow mousse is lovely heaped into small glass bowls and topped with fresh berries. For spring holidays, I like to pile the mousse into a 2-quart glass jar, stuff the remaining space with yellow Peeps, and seal. But hey, that’s me.

My favorite Passover table ever

Beautiful eggs

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 30 minutes

Wait: Overnight

Makes: 4 dyed eggs

1 quart water

One of the following coloring agents:

3 cups (about 4 whole) grated raw beets (for pink)

3 cups (about 1/2) grated red cabbage (for blue)

2 tablespoons ground turmeric (for yellow)

2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar

4 hard-cooked white eggs (recipe follows)

1. Boil: Settle water and one coloring agent in a large saucepan. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer until intensely colored, 30 minutes.

2. Fix: Let cool to room temperature. Strain out beets or cabbage (no need to strain turmeric). Stir in vinegar.

3. Dye: Add hard-cooked eggs; turn once to eliminate bald spots. Chill overnight. Pretty, right?

Hard-cooked eggs: If you’ve got a two-tiered strainer pot (the kind often used to boil noodles), this is a good time to find it. Settle cold large eggs in a single layer in the strainer portion or in a saucepan. Pour in cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring just to a boil. Pull pan off heat, cover and let rest 16 minutes. Pull out strainer (or scoop out eggs with a slotted spoon) and submerge in a pan of ice water. Cool 10 minutes.

Carrots and parnsips

Prep: 20 minutes

Cook: 30 minutes

Makes: 4 to 6 servings

This savory (and slightly sweet) side dish unites

parsnips, carrots, parsley and cumin, all members of

the Apiaceae family.

1 pound small parsnips (about 8), peeled,

trimmed

1 pound carrots (about 6), peeled, trimmed

1 clove garlic

1 teaspoon salt

1⁄2 teaspoon pepper

1⁄4 teaspoon ground cumin

6 tablespoons fresh orange juice

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1⁄2 cup finely chopped parsley

1 Boil: Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add

whole parsnips and carrots. Cook until tender (test

by poking with a fork), 15-17 minutes.

2 Mash: Meanwhile, using a mortar and pestle (or

heavy knife) smash together garlic, salt, pepper

and cumin. Whisk together with orange juice, oil and

lemon juice. Set aside.

3 Slice: When vegetables are cooked, drain. Note:

Small parsnips should have tender cores about

the diameter of a pencil. If you find wide, woody cores,

slice the parsnip lengthwise, cut out and discard the

core. Slice parsnips and carrots crosswise on the

diagonal into 1/4-inch-thick ovals.

4 Caramelize: Set a wide skillet (or two) over

medium heat. Melt in butter (or pour in oil). Slide in sliced

parsnips and carrots. Cook, turning now and then,

until most of the slices have turned golden brown,

about 8 minutes.

5 Deglaze: Pour in the orange juice mixture. Reduce

heat to low; cook, tossing,1minute.

6 Serve: Slide everything into a serving dish.

Sprinkle with parsley (and more salt and pepper if

need be). Enjoy at room temperature.

Asparagus

Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 4 minutes Makes: 4 servings

2 pounds fresh fat asparagus

Kosher salt

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1⁄2 cup creme fraiche

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

1 Peel: Lay asparagus, one at a time, on a cutting board.

Using a vegetable peeler, strip away skin from just

below the tip to the bottom. Break off woody bottom.

Rinse. Repeat. Consider this project productive

meditation.

2 Simmer: Choose a skillet wide enough to

accommodate dozing asparagus. Half fill with water.

Add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil; add asparagus.

Reduce to a simmer. Cook, rolling spears once, until they

turn brilliant green at the tips and offer a tender bite,

about 4 minutes.

3 Dry: Use tongs to pull out asparagus. Drain briefly in a

colander. Spread out spears on a clean kitchen towel

(or two) and roll up, keeping asparagus dry and warm.

4Whisk: Measure mustard into a small bowl. Slowly

whisk in 3 tablespoons of the hot asparagus-cooking

water. Whisk in creme fraiche. Season this sauce with salt

and pepper, a squeeze of lemon and the chives.

5 Serve: Heap asparagus on a platter. Either pour on

sauce (leaving ruched points and an inch or two of

bottom bare), or serve sauce in a bowl alongside, for

dipping.

Basic brisket

Serves: 8

One 5-pound beef brisket

2 tablespoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon freshly ground pepper

Vegetable oil

10 cloves garlic

2 carrots

2 stalks celery

1 onion

1 cup dried apricots

6 sprigs parsley

2 sprigs thyme

2 bay leaves

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 bottle red wine

2 cups beef broth

1.  Prep: Season brisket with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate 2 to 24 hours. Smash garlic. Cut carrots and celery into 1-inch chunks. Thinly slice onion.

2.  Brown: In a large Dutch oven, heat 2 tablespoons oil over medium-high heat. Add brisket and brown, 5 minutes per side. Lift out brisket and tumble in garlic, carrots, celery and onion. Cook, stirring, until lightly browned, 10 minutes. Add apricots, parsley, thyme, bay leaves and tomato paste. Cook, stirring, 2 minutes.

3.  Braise: Set brisket on top of vegetables. Pour in wine. Liquid should rise about half way up the side of the meat. If need be, pour in broth. Heat to a simmer. Cover and carefully slide into a 350-degree oven. Let cook, undisturbed, until fork tender, 2 - 3 hours.

4.  Slice: Let cool. Lift out meat and slice thinly against the grain. Lift out a few pretty carrots for show. Heat the rest of the liquid over medium heat until thick. Pour through a fine-mesh strainer. Adjust salt and pepper. Pour sauce back into the Dutch oven. Lay in sliced meat. If you’ve got time, refrigerate overnight and reheat gently the next day. If not, reheat gently and enjoy.

Orange cake

Prep: 30 minutes

Bake: 1 hour

Makes: 1 low 9-inch cake, serves 12

A Passover tradition in many families, this cake calls for neither butter nor flour.

1 ½ cups ground blanched almonds (sold as almond flour or meal) plus 1 – 2 tablespoons for  pan

2 oranges (or sub 1 ¼ pounds clementines)

6 eggs

1 ¼ cups sugar

2 tablespoons orange-blossom water, optional

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1. Prep: Lightly oil a 9-inch springform pan. Dust with almond flour.

2. Soften: Wash oranges. Settle whole oranges in a bowl and fill with cold water until the oranges float. Zap in the microwave until very soft, about 23 - 25 minutes. Alternatively, settle oranges in a saucepan, fill with cold water until they float, cover and boil until very soft, about 1 ½ hours.

3. Swirl: Pull oranges out of their bath. Pull off little green nubs on top. Slice each in half along its equator and pluck out any seeds (Clementines lack seeds). Drop fruit – skin and all – into the food processor. Swirl completely smooth.

4. Mix: Whisk together eggs, sugar, orange-blossom water, baking powder, salt and almonds. Whisk in orange puree.

5. Bake: Scrape batter into prepared pan. Bake at 375 degrees until springy in the center and a toothpick stabbed in the center comes out clean, about 45 – 50 minutes. Cool. Run a knife around the edge of the pan to loosen cake. Unsnap pan rim. This moist cake is lovely unadorned. Or glaze with 1 tablespoon lemon juice whisked into ¼ cup powdered sugar.

Provenance: Adapted from The Book of Jewish Food by Claudia Roden.

Lamb stew

Prep: 15 minutes

Cook: 8 hours

Makes: 6 servings

1 onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

2 ribs celery, chopped

2 cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 bay leaf

1 sprig rosemary

1 pound dried white beans, such as navy or great northern

1 lamb shoulder (2 pounds), trimmed of fat

Olive oil

1 pound baby spinach leaves

Spicy sauce, such as harissa, optional

1 Prep: Heap onion, carrots, celery and half the garlic into a slow cooker. Sprinkle with half the salt and pepper. Toss in bay leaf and rosemary.

2 Boil: Rinse and sort beans. Scrape into a big pot. Fill with cold water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil; boil 1 minute. Pour beans and water into the slow cooker (no need to drain). Make sure water rises 1 inch above the bean line. (If not, add more.)

3 Season: Rub lamb with oil. Season with remaining garlic, salt and pepper. Set lamb on top of beans.

4 Ignore: Cover slow cooker and set on low. Ignore, about 8 hours. Come home to a hearty meal that practically cooked itself.

5 Serve: Discard bay leaf and rosemary. Spoon off any fat. Heap in spinach; cover and let wilt, about 3 minutes. Break up lamb. Scoop beans, spinach and lamb into bowls. Spoon on a little spicy sauce, if you like. Yum, right? 

Quinoa

Prep: 5 minutes

Cook: 15 minutes

Makes: 4 servings

1 cup quinoa

3 tablespoons butter

1⁄2 cup pine nuts

Kosher salt

1 Steam: Set up a steamer or improvise by setting a colander inside a large pot. Fill pot with water to a depth of 1 inch. Line steamer basket or colander with a clean kitchen towel. Rinse and drain quinoa; scrape it onto the kitchen towel. Cover pot. Heat to a boil, and let steam until quinoa has unspiraled and turned translucent in the center, about 15 minutes.

2 Brown: Heat butter in a small skillet set over medium-high heat. Add pine nuts. Cook, stirring, until both butter and nuts have browned, about 5 minutes.

3 Serve: Scrape steamed quinoa into a serving bowl. Drizzle on nuts and butter. Mix with a fork. Sprinkle with salt. Enjoy warm.

Matzo balls

Makes 24

2 quarts chicken broth, for cooking

2 eggs

1/2 cup matzo meal

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh dill

1.  Heat: Pour broth into a medium saucepan; heat to boiling.

2.  Fluff: Separate egg whites into a medium mixing bowl, yolks into a small bowl. Whip whites until stiff. 

3.  Mix: With a rubber spatula, gently fold in yolks. Sprinkle on matzo meal, salt and dill. Combine gently and thoroughly.

4.  Roll: Shape 24 small balls. Set them on waxed paper as you work.

5.  Boil: Drop balls into boiling broth. Cover and simmer until a test ball, split in half, reveals a uniformly cream-colored and soft center, 25 minutes.

6.  Serve: Scoop out matzo balls with a slotted spoon. Discard boiling liquid. Serve with your favorite chicken soup.

Chocolate cake

Substitute canola oil for butter, if you prefer a non-dairy version. 

 Serves 12

12 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

11 tablespoons (1 stick plus 3 tablespoons) unsalted butter, cut up

3⁄4 cup sugar

5 eggs, separated

1⁄3 cup ground blanched almonds (sold as almond meal or flour)

1 cup Chocolate Glaze (recipe follows)

1. Melt: In a large heavy saucepan set over low heat melt chocolate, butter, and sugar. Let cool.

2. Mix: Whisk egg yolks into the chocolate. Whisk in flour.

3. Fluff: Beat egg whites to firm peaks.

4. Fold: Vigorously mix one-third of the egg whites into the chocolate batter. Gently and thoroughly fold in remaining whites.

5. Bake: Pour batter into a buttered 9-inch spring-form pan. Slide into a 350-degree oven and bake until the cake is firm and springy, about 35 minutes. Cool completely. Release cake and invert onto a 9- inch cardboard or cake-pan round.

6. Glaze: Set cake (on its round) on a wire rack. Set rack over a rimmed baking sheet, to catch drips. Pour all the warm glaze into a big puddle on top. Use the back of an offset spatula to nudge glaze toward the edges, where it can drip becomingly down the sides. Let set a few minutes. Stun guests.

Chocolate Glaze

Makes about 1 cup

For a non-dairy version, simply melt the chocolate with 3 tablespoons coconut oil.

Chop 4 ounces semisweet chocolate and tumble into a medium bowl. Heat 1⁄2 cup heavy cream to boiling. Pour hot cream over chocolate. Cover with a plate and let stand 5 minutes. With a soft spatula, gently stir smooth. Stir in 1 teaspoon cognac.

Matzo toffee

1 1/2 cups (3 sticks) unsalted butter

Flaky sea salt, such as Maldon

6 sheets matzo (the thin, crispy salted sort are nice if you can find them)

1 1/2 cups packed dark-brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract 

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt 

12 ounces (2 cups) semi-sweet or bittersweet chocolate chips

1 cup chopped pecans, toasted

1.  Organize: Melt butter in a large saucepan. Brush a little of the butter onto a large (22 x 15) rimmed baking sheet. Fit with parchment paper, allowing for some overhang. Brush parchment lightly with butter. Sprinkle lightly with flaky salt. Line up matzos on buttered parchment, touching, but not overlapping (if you have to crack off a couple edges to make it all fit neatly, do what you must). Heat oven to 400 degrees.

2.  Thicken: Whisk brown sugar and vanilla into remaining butter. Set over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil; boil until thick and 245 degrees, about 2 - 3 minutes. Pour evenly over matzos.

3.  Bake: Slide pan into oven and bake until light brown and bubbly (and not over 245 degrees), about 3 minutes. Carefully pull pan out of oven.

4.  Gild: Scatter molten surface with chocolate chips. Let melt, 5 minutes. Use an offset spatula to spread chocolate. Cast on nuts; gently press into chocolate. Scatter lightly with flaky sea salt. 

5.  Cool: Let rest at room temperature until set, or, if you're having trouble waiting, freeze firm, 30 minutes.

6.  Cut: Lift parchment by its overhang, and set toffee (paper and all) on a cutting surface. Slice into matzo-sized squares. Wrap each in foil, return to matzo box and bring along to your seder as a hostess gift. 

Barbecued Beef Brisket

Prep: 10 minutes

Cook: 10 hours or so

Serves: 10, at least

One 10-pound beef brisket “whole packer” cut

Kosher salt

Olive oil

Rub, recipe follows

½ cup Coke (or beef broth)

1. Trim: Trim most of the fat away, leaving a mere 1/8th inch. Season the brisket with ½ teaspoon salt per pound. (If you’re on your game, do this step the night before.) Rub the brisket with a little oil. Pat on the rub, all over.

2. Smoke: Build or spark a low fire on one side of the grill. If you’ve got a digital thermometer, stab one probe into the meat and set the other on the grates. Keep the grate temp at 225 and set the brisket over indirect heat, fat side up. Let the brisket cook, undisturbed, until the meat temp reaches 150 degrees, about 5 hours. If you like, toss wood chips on the grates regularly to give the meat a smoky taste.

3. Wrap: For reasons that are beyond anyone but the BBQ geek, the temperature tends to stall out at 150 degrees. To prevent this, execute the Texas Crutch, which is to say, wrap the meat in two layers of heavy foil. Pour the Coke into the bottom of the foil packet, seal it tightly, and return it to the low, indirect heat.

4. Wait: Let the meat braise, undisturbed, until the internal temperature reaches 200 degrees, another 5 hours or so.

5. Hold: Lift the foil-wrapped meat off the grill and set it in a cooler lined with kitchen towels. It will hold hot and juicy for hours.

6. Serve: When ready to serve, unwrap. Set aside any juices. Grill the brisket directly over medium-high heat just to crisp up the exterior, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Slice (see Provenance), douse with reserved juices, and serve.

Provenance: Most of the techniques here are distilled from Craig Meathead Goldwyn’s site, Amazingribs.com. Consult the site for a detailed explanation of how to slice a brisket.

Rub: Toss together 3 tablespoons coarsely ground black pepper, 1 tablespoon brown sugar, 1 tablespoon ground cumin, 2 teaspoons mustard powder, 2 teaspoons garlic powder, 2 teaspoons chili powder and 1 teaspoon ground cayenne.

Quail egg salad

Serves 6

12 quail eggs*
1 pound arugula
1 pound watercress
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon walnut oil
1 clove garlic, slivered
1/4 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
Pepper


1. Boil: Settle eggs in the bottom of a medium saucepan. Cover with cold water. Bring to a boil, pull pan off heat, cover and let rest 6 minutes. Rinse under cold water.

2. Arrange: Discard the thick stems from the arugula and watercress. Feather six nests with the greens, working with small bowls and a bird's sense of style. Nestle two unpeeled eggs in the center of each and set out for your guests to admire.

3. Crisp: Heat olive oil, walnut oil, garlic and walnuts in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until garlic is crisp, about 3 minutes. Remove from heat. Let cool a moment. Stir in vinegar, cautiously; it will spatter. Season with salt and pepper.

4. Serve: Let your guests crack off the darling speckled shells (have a shell receptacle handy). Drizzle warm vinaigrette over salad.

*Quail eggs are available at many grocery stores and Asian markets. If unavailable, substitute 6 standard eggs. Increase simmering time to 16 minutes.
 

Brownies

Prep: 15 minutes

Bake: 35 minutes, plus time to cool

Makes: 16 2-inch square brownies

This is a brownie of contrasts: sugar-crunch bottom, fudgy center, crackly top. Plus, just in time for Passover, it calls for no flour.

Butter, softened, for the pan (or substitute canola oil)

1 tablespoon sugar, for the pan

10 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped or chips

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up (or substitute canola oil)

2 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup sugar

½ cup ground blanched almonds (sold as almond meal or flour)

1. Prep: Rub a little butter along the bottom and sides of an 8-inch baking pan, as glue. Line the pan with parchment paper, leaving some overhang. Butter the parchment paper across the bottom of the pan. Sprinkle with 1 tablespoon sugar and tap pan to spread sugar over the butter. Heat oven to 350.

2. Zap: Tumble chocolate and cut-up butter into a mixing bowl. Zap to melt, about 2 minutes. Stir smooth.

3. Mix: Using a wooden spoon, stir in, one at a time, in order: eggs, vanilla, salt, sugar and almond meal. Stir until batter is thick and glossy, about 1 minute. Scrape batter into prepared pan.

4. Bake: Slide pan into the middle of the oven and bake until top of brownie is glossy and puffed in the center and a toothpick poked in the center comes out speckled with crumbs (not slicked with batter), about 35 minutes.

5. Serve: Cool completely in pan (about 1 hour). Grasping the paper overhang, lift brownie out onto a cutting board. Slice into 16 squares. Enjoy … obviously.