Prep: 30 minutes Cook: 4 minutes Makes: 4 servings

2 pounds fresh fat asparagus

Kosher salt

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

1⁄2 cup creme fraiche

Freshly ground black pepper

Freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 to 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives

1 Peel: Lay asparagus, one at a time, on a cutting board.

Using a vegetable peeler, strip away skin from just

below the tip to the bottom. Break off woody bottom.

Rinse. Repeat. Consider this project productive

meditation.

2 Simmer: Choose a skillet wide enough to

accommodate dozing asparagus. Half fill with water.

Add 1 tablespoon salt. Bring to a boil; add asparagus.

Reduce to a simmer. Cook, rolling spears once, until they

turn brilliant green at the tips and offer a tender bite,

about 4 minutes.

3 Dry: Use tongs to pull out asparagus. Drain briefly in a

colander. Spread out spears on a clean kitchen towel

(or two) and roll up, keeping asparagus dry and warm.

4Whisk: Measure mustard into a small bowl. Slowly

whisk in 3 tablespoons of the hot asparagus-cooking

water. Whisk in creme fraiche. Season this sauce with salt

and pepper, a squeeze of lemon and the chives.

5 Serve: Heap asparagus on a platter. Either pour on

sauce (leaving ruched points and an inch or two of

bottom bare), or serve sauce in a bowl alongside, for

dipping.