Yield: 1 loaf

For roux:

22 grams/2 tablespoons bread flour

59 grams/¼ cup milk (any fat percentage)

59 grams/¼ cup water

For bread:

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

15 grams/2 tablespoons warm water

57 grams/4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut up

118 grams/½ cup milk (any fat percentage)

1 large egg

325 grams/2½ cups bread flour

50 grams/¼ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Softened butter, for greasing the bowl and pan

For top:

Milk, any fat percentage

1 egg, whisked

Thicken: Make the roux by whisking together in a small, heavy saucepan the 22 grams flour, the 59 grams milk, and the 59 grams water until smooth. Set over medium heat and cook, whisking, until the whisk leaves tracks in the thickened roux, about 4 minutes. Scrape into a small bowl and set aside to cool down. No need to wash that saucepan.
Proof: In a cup or small bowl, stir together the 2 teaspoons yeast and the 15 grams warm water. Set aside until yeast looks creamy.
Scald: Drop the 57 grams of butter chunks into a 1-quart heat-proof measuring cup. Pour the 118 grams milk into a saucepan (how about the one you just used for the roux?). Set the pan over high heat. Milk will bubble, then foam up dramatically. Pour milk over butter. Stir, melting butter. Stir in the egg. When no longer hot to the touch (90 degrees), stir in the cooled roux and the dissolved yeast.
Mix: In the bowl of a stand mixer, whisk together the 325 grams bread flour, the 100 grams sugar, and the 1 teaspoon kosher salt. Pour in the liquid ingredients and mix with a soft spatula until no dry flour specks remain. Fit mixer with the dough hook. Knead on low speed, about 20-25 minutes. When properly kneaded, the soft dough will pass the windowpane test: Take a small lump of dough and stretch it out. If you can see through it (without the dough tearing), you’re all set.
Rise: Butter a large bowl softened butter. With lightly buttered hands, scoop up the dough. Smooth the top over and tuck the ragged ends under, shaping a (wiggly) ball. Set the ball smooth side down in the bowl, and turn to coat with butter. Cover the bowl with a clean kitchen towel. Set the bowl in a warm spot and let the dough rise until doubled, about 1 hour.
Deflate: Slide your hands down the sides of the bowl and lift the dough from underneath, deflating it. Settle dough on a work surface; cut it in thirds (about 240 grams each). Smooth the the top of each portion over, tucking ragged ends under, shaping each into a ball. Cover with the kitchen towel and let rise, 15 minutes.
Heat: Adjust one rack to the lower third of the oven. Heat the oven to 350 degrees. Butter a 9-by-5-inch loaf pan.
Shape: Using a lightly floured rolling pin and a light touch, roll one dough ball into a rectangle, about 10 x 5 inches. Fold the top down and the bottom up, forming a square. Starting at one open end, roll the square into a log. Repeat with remaining dough balls. Arrange the three logs in the pan crosswise and seams down.
Bake: Cover the pan with the kitchen towel and let rest in a warm spot about 30 minutes, until the dough rises to the rim of the pan. If you like matte finish, brush the top of the loaf with a little milk. Bake until golden brown and at least 190F inside, 35 to 40 minutes.
Gild: For a shiny finish, wait until the bread is baked. Brush the top of the hot loaf lightly with egg wash. Let the bread cool in the pan 10 minutes. Turn out and cool completely on a wire rack.

Provenance: Adapted from a New York Times recipe by Julia Moskin, with inspiration from justonecookbook.com and drivemehungry.com.